FAQ

Dolomite Plaster is a plaster product. The standard method is to roll on a base coat, then trowel over it to build up either a Smooth Finish or a Tactile Finish — that trowelled layering is what gives this line its texture and handmade character. It's the right choice if you want that dimensional, trowelled surface and plan to bring in a painter to apply it.

Marble Paint is formulated specifically for brush or roller application. It carries the same tactile depth as the plaster line, with the colour payoff and ease of a paint — brushed or rolled, it still builds a fine texture and a deep matte finish, just with a simpler, more even application. It's the better fit if you want to apply it yourself with a brush or roller, or just want a lower-effort process.

Marble Paint is made from ultra-fine limestone powder, recycled ash, and natural pigments. It's thick, high-coverage, and dries to a matte finish with a fine texture. Coverage is roughly 4–6 m²/L per coat, two coats recommended.

Lime Paint is a pure mineral limewash — thinner in consistency (it needs diluting before use), drying to a deep matte, washable finish. It's breathable, mould-resistant, and fire-resistant, and it absorbs CO₂ as it cures. Coverage is roughly 6–8 m²/L per coat, two coats recommended. Brush strokes stay more visible, giving it a more hand-painted, artisanal look.

There are three undercoats in the St. Leo system:

• Bio Micro Primer — for high-absorbency or unevenly absorbent surfaces (new boards, cement surfaces), to even out absorption before painting.
• Bio Undercoat (White & Light / Mid / Dark Tones) — the dedicated undercoat for Bio Paint, also suitable under Marble Paint. Pick the tone that matches your final colour for more even absorption and truer colour.
• Lime Paint Undercoat — the dedicated undercoat for Lime Paint, for walls with uneven tone or multiple patched areas.

One important note: Dolomite Plaster, Marble Paint, and Lime Paint are all specified as unsuitable for wood or metal surfaces — they're formulated for plaster, painted cement surfaces, boards (calcium silicate, gypsum board, etc.), and brick walls. If your partition wall's finish is skim-coated calcium silicate or gypsum board, you can treat it like any standard wall. But if it's exposed timber being coloured directly, you'll need the Wood & Metal range instead — none of the three products above are suitable for that.

• Marble Paint: ready to use straight from the tin — dilution isn't necessary, though you can add up to 10% water if you want it to spread more easily.
• Lime Paint: because of its high mineral content and thicker consistency, we recommend diluting both the first and second coats with 5–10% water. Stir thoroughly before and during application.

Marble Paint has two official application methods:

• Shadow Finish: roll on the paint first, then, while still wet, use a brush with short, multi-directional strokes to build up dimensional shadow.
• Canvas Finish: simply roll on with a wide roller for a natural, mottled texture — layered up close, more even from a distance.

Lime Paint also has two methods:

• Shadow Finish: use a wide brush in an X pattern or irregular multi-directional strokes for a layered, hand-painted surface.
• Pillar Finish: brush in vertical, sectioned strokes for a regular, columnar texture.
• A roller also works for an even matte finish, but darker shades tend to show roller marks — we'd recommend saving the roller for lighter colours (like Still White, Porcelain White, or Stone Dust).

The standard method for Dolomite Plaster is rolling on a base coat, then trowelling over it to build the texture — that trowel work is what creates the dimensional grain. In the official method, a brush is mainly for small touch-ups and spot repairs, not for applying a full wall. If you want to apply an entire wall with just a brush while keeping that textured feel, Marble Paint is the better match.

• Dolomite Plaster: approx. 1.5 m²/L per coat, two coats recommended.
• Marble Paint: approx. 4–6 m²/L per coat, two coats recommended.
• Lime Paint: approx. 6–8 m²/L per coat, two coats recommended.

Actual usage varies with how absorbent your surface is. You're welcome to use St. Leo's online coverage calculator, or just send us your square footage and we'll help estimate it.

Yes. Dolomite Plaster and Marble Paint share the same set of 16 colours, drawn from the Copenhagen, Milan, and Paris palettes within Original Pigments' full 100-colour range. For any given colour name (Rue Bottero or Magstræde, for example), you can choose the textured, dimensional finish of Dolomite Plaster, the smooth matte-stone finish of Marble Paint, or the flat matte finish of Original Pigments — mixing and matching the same colour across different textures on different walls.

One note: because each material has different surface texture, grain, and application method, the same named colour can still read as a subtly different shade once it's on the wall. If you'd rather avoid any visible variation, we'd recommend sticking to one material within the same room or across adjoining walls.

Suitable: plaster surfaces, painted cement surfaces (including old paint), boards (calcium silicate, gypsum board, etc.), and brick walls. The surface needs to be dry, level, and free of loose material — semi-gloss or glossy surfaces should be lightly sanded for grip, then thoroughly cleaned.
Not suitable: wood or metal (use the Wood & Metal range instead), or shower walls and any surface in direct contact with water.

Yes — bathroom walls outside the direct-splash area of a shower are fine. We wouldn't recommend it for the inside of a shower or any surface that comes into direct contact with water.

No — these are for interior walls and ceilings only.

• Marble Paint: water-based, solvent-free, extremely low VOC.
• Lime Paint: a pure mineral paint with no plastics, microplastics, or plasticisers — breathable, humidity-regulating, mould- and fire-resistant, and it absorbs CO₂ as it cures. Extremely low VOC.
• Dolomite Plaster: made from ultra-fine dolomite powder, recycled ash, and natural pigments. Extremely low VOC.

Marble Paint / Lime Paint: touch-dry and ready for a second coat after 2–4 hours, but full cure takes about 30 days — avoid cleaning or otherwise stressing the surface before then.
Dolomite Plaster: leave about 12 hours between coats. If a Topcoat finish is applied, it likewise needs the full 30 days to cure before cleaning.

Once fully cured, wipe away marks gently with a damp (not wet) soft cloth or sponge and warm water — avoid scrubbing or cleaning products, which can damage the finish. During the 30-day cure, keep water and cleaning away from the surface as much as possible, and use a soft brush attachment when vacuuming nearby walls to avoid scratching.

Spot repairs are hard to make completely invisible. We'd recommend recoating the entire wall or ceiling with paint from the same batch as the original, to keep colour and texture consistent. If you do want to patch just the affected area, use paint from that same original batch — lighter colours tend to hide a patch repair better than darker ones.

No. Once a tin is opened and exposed to air, the paint is considered used, so it's not eligible for the standard 7-day return period.

If your order hasn't shipped yet, we can help change it to another colour from the existing range. Custom-mixed colours, however, can't be changed once ordered.

Orders ship via SF Express Taiwan, usually within 2–3 days of purchase, arriving the day after dispatch. If weather or other events beyond our control delay shipping, we'll get your order out as soon as possible and let you know the updated delivery timeline.

Yes — you're welcome to visit our showroom in person, or arrange a time for us to coordinate a visit with the supplier. Physical colour card sets covering the full range are also available to purchase. If you're worried the card won't quite match the real thing on your wall, we recommend ordering a wet sample to test-paint — these are air-freighted in from Denmark, which may come with an extra shipping cost that we'll let you know about upfront.